Thursday, November 09, 2006

None Shall Pass


Anticipating a small window of opportunity, my brother G and I headed out Sunday at 6 a.m. in hopes of catching a brief reprieve in the otherwise stormy winter conditions that have been hitting Oregon lately.

Lack of surf and the inevitable jonzing-induced optimism that comes with it, prohibited us from reading any writing on the wall with regards to the realistic potential for surfable surf. Perhaps our most telltale sign that today was not the day to go surfing was the big branch that had fallen across our usual path to the beach.

Not to be deterred, G and I pressed on until we reached our usual spot-check point. With dense fog covering the entire beach, spot-checking had to take on the sonic varietal.

“Definitely sounds like there are waves.” Said G.

Giving new meaning to “You gotta go to know”, G and I suited up and paddled out into the abyss. There were definitely waves - an endless wall of 15 footers and white water to be precise. We made it no further than the inside reforms.

Adding injury to insult, my bro’s “wave”-of-the-day ended with him being surprised to see me emerge from the white water which caused him to accidentally shot the nose of his board into the side of my face in an effort not to run me over. God bless the 5-mil hoody.

4 Comments:

Blogger G said...

I said I'm sorry. What more do you want? That could be my last chance at a wave until next year. Actually, there appears to be a similar window today - 7' @ 11 secs - but I'm a little gun shy.

11:06 AM  
Blogger OS said...

No apologies necessary G. If I'd been a bit more alert, rather than just bobbing there like a piece of driftwood caught in headlights, things would have went down differently.

The sastifaction of seeing one of us actually find clarity in the chaos and ride a wave was well worth it.

3:45 PM  
Blogger Chum said...

What can I tell you boys... I told you so? First time I've balked at a session and actually made the right call. Although there does seem to be a makeable right at the bottom the photo below...

12:49 PM  
Blogger Jgirl said...

Funny. Surfing in the fog is always makes a good memory. Nice blog.

1:16 AM  

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