Monday, January 17, 2011

Mistress Eyes Nothing Like The Sun.

If only every day could start with a sunrise like the ones they have here.

The reason for the journey is not hard to find...

The swell dropped a lot today so we tried a place with a little more punch...

Chest high for the most part today...

But that didn't stop the wishful thinking...

My board and I had a long talk before this next wave where it was decided that we would split the peak. Shame The Daily Donkey isn't still around.

This guy had a better chance of getting barreled then me.

Still a few lefts to be had...

Four days in El Salvador went by in a blur...

Until next time.

Note: All photos taken by photog and surf guide extraordinaire - Joaquin Aragon @

Sunday, January 16, 2011

Man Standing On Water

The best thing about having someone photograph you surf session is you get to see yourself surf. The worse part about having someone photograph your surf session is, in my case, you get to see yourself surf. Style? Nada. Spray? Nada. Essentially every wave is a variation of me standing on my board in some stage of an evolutionary bumper sticker. At best I look like a bulgarian deadlifter, at worse, someone on a nordic track on water, although, unlike Alex Knost in The Present, I don't actually have a nordica track. Oh well. Should started 20 years ago.

Today I went to K59 again and got there just as the sun was rising.

The fact that the sun rises over water gives you a good indication how south El Salvador faces and why there's an unusual amount of rights. But the odd left can always be found.

What's more beautiful, a sunrise or a an empty line up?


First light right...



Oh the possibilities...what would Dane do?

Maybe I can just...

One size does not fit all...

Wasn't for a lack of trying...

Wave pool admission: $800 flight, $30/nt. room, $300 guide.

Worth it?

Swell picked up a foot today...

Unfortunately my surfing stayed the same...

After a an hour and a half of having it to myself, a guy from Florida paddled out. He was on a similar last minute excursion.

Nordic Tracking...

Tomorrow we're heading to a "secret" spot that is suppose to have a better barrel section. Fingers crossed.

Hasta manana.

Saturday, January 15, 2011


Sunrises over water here...Early bird gets it to himself.

Could today be the day?

Butt shot.



You can do it big guy.

Empty lefts.

This one's all yours Ricker.

Wednesday, June 09, 2010

Gabe and Taylor's Off-White Wedding

Matt, Beau and I surprise Gabe and Taylor with a cover of Billy Idol's "White Wedding" at the start of their ceremony in Troncones, Mexico.

Sunday, March 07, 2010

Dad's 60th dream.

Friday, April 17, 2009

One Final Look Back...

Our last day in Mex arrived with a bump in the swell. While the waves were definitely bigger than they had been all trip, they were also more prone to closing out or sectioning off, so you had to choose wisely. Fortunately we arrived at first light and had it to ourselves for the first hour and a half and could pick and choose.

I rode G's single fin and caught some really fun waves before eventually taking a monster on the head which snapped the leash and sent G's board shooting to shore without me. Thankfully a local guy swam out and grabbed it before any really damage could happen. I had a long swim in and decided to call it a day/trip. These are the picks I took while enjoying one last heaping portion of huevos ala Mexicana at the Ranch. Click on the photos to enlarge.

The breakfast joint (above) is the only structure here. It's run by a woman and her three young daughters who cook up delicious treats to be enjoyed while watching the surf.

The guy above caught a bomb and despite never getting tubed raised both his arms about four different times in claiming celebration. Perhaps he was just giving thanks to the good Lord, it was Easter after all and it was a damn good wave.

There weren't many barrels being had today but this guy came as close as anyone. He made this wave and had a good long ride as a result.

This guy dropped into a good one and did well to get around the eventual section for a nice long slide.

The guy above was camping here with his family and had the raddest board on the beach.

We met Nick (above) in Troncones. He's been on quite the surf safari killing time between Med School and his up coming residency at NYU. He surfed the right (see previous post) with us for a few days. He also said he saw a dorsal fin down there the day after we all surfed together and decided not to paddle out guy, guess that's why he's gonna be a doctor.

The guy above got more waves than anybody and, despite his bull-dogish look, was also the most stoke-evoking guy in the water -- hooting and rooting everyone in the line up...I guess that's what happens when you catch more waves than anyone else.

Bill (above) is the shaper behind Billboards Surfboards. He spends about half the year down here camping and surfing. The rest of the year he spends up in North Carolina shaping a board a week to make ends-meet. Not a bad gig.

These two looks about sum up the trip. Total exhaustion (above) and total satisfaction (below).

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