One Final Look Back...
Our last day in Mex arrived with a bump in the swell. While the waves were definitely bigger than they had been all trip, they were also more prone to closing out or sectioning off, so you had to choose wisely. Fortunately we arrived at first light and had it to ourselves for the first hour and a half and could pick and choose.
I rode G's single fin and caught some really fun waves before eventually taking a monster on the head which snapped the leash and sent G's board shooting to shore without me. Thankfully a local guy swam out and grabbed it before any really damage could happen. I had a long swim in and decided to call it a day/trip. These are the picks I took while enjoying one last heaping portion of huevos ala Mexicana at the Ranch. Click on the photos to enlarge.
The breakfast joint (above) is the only structure here. It's run by a woman and her three young daughters who cook up delicious treats to be enjoyed while watching the surf.
The guy above caught a bomb and despite never getting tubed raised both his arms about four different times in claiming celebration. Perhaps he was just giving thanks to the good Lord, it was Easter after all and it was a damn good wave.
There weren't many barrels being had today but this guy came as close as anyone. He made this wave and had a good long ride as a result.
This guy dropped into a good one and did well to get around the eventual section for a nice long slide.
The guy above was camping here with his family and had the raddest board on the beach.
We met Nick (above) in Troncones. He's been on quite the surf safari killing time between Med School and his up coming residency at NYU. He surfed the right (see previous post) with us for a few days. He also said he saw a dorsal fin down there the day after we all surfed together and decided not to paddle out alone...smart guy, guess that's why he's gonna be a doctor.
The guy above got more waves than anybody and, despite his bull-dogish look, was also the most stoke-evoking guy in the water -- hooting and rooting everyone in the line up...I guess that's what happens when you catch more waves than anyone else.
Bill (above) is the shaper behind Billboards Surfboards. He spends about half the year down here camping and surfing. The rest of the year he spends up in North Carolina shaping a board a week to make ends-meet. Not a bad gig.
These two looks about sum up the trip. Total exhaustion (above) and total satisfaction (below).
I rode G's single fin and caught some really fun waves before eventually taking a monster on the head which snapped the leash and sent G's board shooting to shore without me. Thankfully a local guy swam out and grabbed it before any really damage could happen. I had a long swim in and decided to call it a day/trip. These are the picks I took while enjoying one last heaping portion of huevos ala Mexicana at the Ranch. Click on the photos to enlarge.
The breakfast joint (above) is the only structure here. It's run by a woman and her three young daughters who cook up delicious treats to be enjoyed while watching the surf.
The guy above caught a bomb and despite never getting tubed raised both his arms about four different times in claiming celebration. Perhaps he was just giving thanks to the good Lord, it was Easter after all and it was a damn good wave.
There weren't many barrels being had today but this guy came as close as anyone. He made this wave and had a good long ride as a result.
This guy dropped into a good one and did well to get around the eventual section for a nice long slide.
The guy above was camping here with his family and had the raddest board on the beach.
We met Nick (above) in Troncones. He's been on quite the surf safari killing time between Med School and his up coming residency at NYU. He surfed the right (see previous post) with us for a few days. He also said he saw a dorsal fin down there the day after we all surfed together and decided not to paddle out alone...smart guy, guess that's why he's gonna be a doctor.
The guy above got more waves than anybody and, despite his bull-dogish look, was also the most stoke-evoking guy in the water -- hooting and rooting everyone in the line up...I guess that's what happens when you catch more waves than anyone else.
Bill (above) is the shaper behind Billboards Surfboards. He spends about half the year down here camping and surfing. The rest of the year he spends up in North Carolina shaping a board a week to make ends-meet. Not a bad gig.
These two looks about sum up the trip. Total exhaustion (above) and total satisfaction (below).
posted by OS at 1:56 PM
3 Comments:
What I wouldn't give to be there right now.
it's paradise alright !
that little single looks like a mandalian hull ... how did it do in solid 6 foot ?
is there an email you can be contacted at? my company wants to chat with you about your blog+their spring line which caters towards surfers.
thanks!
veronica@jedidiahusa.com
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