Wednesday, April 08, 2009

At First Light Go Right

Today we arrived at our go-to spot at first light only to find that the swell had dropped. Not to be deterred we headed south to a right hand break that we'd surfed once before. Aside from the endless line of plastic bottles, it was a beautiful 20 minute sunrise walk along the beach. When we reached the spot we were greeted with glassy waist to shoulder-high waves peeling fast down the line. We had the place to ourselves (Mark, G and me) for over three hours. We each took turns riding G's new single fin which was definitely the perfect board for these waves.

The next five days are calling for a big jump in swell 5-7ft @ 15-16 secs. It should be fun.


Blogger Nash said...

wow, you guys are killing me.

1:30 PM  
Blogger OS said...

Nash...don't mean to rub it in but you'd love this area. Wish you were here to indulge with us.

2:21 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Es perfecto!--she

8:56 PM  

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