Friday, April 17, 2009

One Final Look Back...

Our last day in Mex arrived with a bump in the swell. While the waves were definitely bigger than they had been all trip, they were also more prone to closing out or sectioning off, so you had to choose wisely. Fortunately we arrived at first light and had it to ourselves for the first hour and a half and could pick and choose.

I rode G's single fin and caught some really fun waves before eventually taking a monster on the head which snapped the leash and sent G's board shooting to shore without me. Thankfully a local guy swam out and grabbed it before any really damage could happen. I had a long swim in and decided to call it a day/trip. These are the picks I took while enjoying one last heaping portion of huevos ala Mexicana at the Ranch. Click on the photos to enlarge.

The breakfast joint (above) is the only structure here. It's run by a woman and her three young daughters who cook up delicious treats to be enjoyed while watching the surf.

The guy above caught a bomb and despite never getting tubed raised both his arms about four different times in claiming celebration. Perhaps he was just giving thanks to the good Lord, it was Easter after all and it was a damn good wave.

There weren't many barrels being had today but this guy came as close as anyone. He made this wave and had a good long ride as a result.

This guy dropped into a good one and did well to get around the eventual section for a nice long slide.

The guy above was camping here with his family and had the raddest board on the beach.

We met Nick (above) in Troncones. He's been on quite the surf safari killing time between Med School and his up coming residency at NYU. He surfed the right (see previous post) with us for a few days. He also said he saw a dorsal fin down there the day after we all surfed together and decided not to paddle out guy, guess that's why he's gonna be a doctor.

The guy above got more waves than anybody and, despite his bull-dogish look, was also the most stoke-evoking guy in the water -- hooting and rooting everyone in the line up...I guess that's what happens when you catch more waves than anyone else.

Bill (above) is the shaper behind Billboards Surfboards. He spends about half the year down here camping and surfing. The rest of the year he spends up in North Carolina shaping a board a week to make ends-meet. Not a bad gig.

These two looks about sum up the trip. Total exhaustion (above) and total satisfaction (below).

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Wednesday, April 08, 2009

At First Light Go Right

Today we arrived at our go-to spot at first light only to find that the swell had dropped. Not to be deterred we headed south to a right hand break that we'd surfed once before. Aside from the endless line of plastic bottles, it was a beautiful 20 minute sunrise walk along the beach. When we reached the spot we were greeted with glassy waist to shoulder-high waves peeling fast down the line. We had the place to ourselves (Mark, G and me) for over three hours. We each took turns riding G's new single fin which was definitely the perfect board for these waves.

The next five days are calling for a big jump in swell 5-7ft @ 15-16 secs. It should be fun.

Saturday, April 04, 2009

What Goes Around Comes Around...

Yesterday, when I took some photos (see previous post), I got a few of a guy named Jeff who was down here from LA with his wife and son. I got his email and sent him the shots, he was stoked. Today, Jeff returned the favor and sent me a photo his wife took of me today.

Above...My photo of Jeff seting up for a big turn off the top.
Below...Jeff's wife's photo of me setting up to Greco Roman wrestle someone.

Gracias Jeff y tu esposa!

Friday, April 03, 2009

Huevos Rancheros

Mex has gifted us with consistent shoulder to head high surf. Just two days into our trip and we've already had two really fun days of surf. The place pictured here is about a 30 minute drive from our casa in Troncones. When you arrive by car you pull up to a cliff that overlooks the break. Today we pulled up to find lines stacked up as far as the eyes could see. This spot is off the beaten path; in fact, the only thing here other than a few camp sites is a small open air restaurant that serves up huevos (any style) along with homemade tortillas. In short, it's paradise. I snapped these photos when I came in to indulge in some Huevos ala Mexicana - a tasty scramble of eggs, tomatoes, cheese and onions served with rice and beans all topped with spicy salsa.

G (above) gets acquainted with his new single fin.

Shit eatin grins were the expression de jour.

Background: Mark H. contemplates what to do with all that green.
Foreground: Our new friend Alex heads out for seconds.

This one had Chum's name all over it...we're missing you amigo!